Prefinished Flooring – Prefinished Hardwood Flooring

Welcome back to our two-part look at the pitfalls of wood filler overuse. Here we’ll look at what happens when you use too much wood filler on your hardwood floors and how you can avoid this oh-too-common mistake. Enjoy!

Part Two: When the Quick-Fix Becomes a Problem

One popular woodworking technique is to apply wood filler to open grained woods in order to give the wood a full finish. However, some flooring installation professionals don’t understand the consequences of over-application. The first thing to remember about wood filler is that it bonds to every hardwood surface you apply it to. If over-application occurs, the filler bonds with the edges of the boards. Once the wood boards contract and expand (because they will) the filler fractures the edges of the wood and creates a jagged, unattractive appearance. A lot of homeowners see this problem and try to fix it by adding more wood filler. This is a big no-no.

Cracked edges can, unfortunately, be a hopeless problem. The best way to avoid the problem altogether is to know how much filler to use and how to use it. During application, the filler should only go into the cracks and gaps, never onto the existing floor. Avoid applying filler between boards and walls – noticeable gaps between planks and walls should be filled with wood, not filler. Of course, make sure you remove any excess filler before sealing or staining. While it may seem important to cover every crack or gap, the general rule with wood filler is that less is more.

Beautiful Red Oak Flooring - No Cracks Or Jagged Edges!

If you know what you’re doing, using wood filler can be a great way to add beauty to your new hardwood floors. However, overuse is lazy and can do irreversible damage to your floors. Before you start a hardwood flooring installation process, make sure you or the installation crew understands how to use wood filler. You’ll be glad you did.

A high quality wood filler can be a useful part of any hardwood flooring installation or repair process. It is used to fill holes, hide small splits and cover cracks. The correct use of wood filler goes unnoticed – the only thing you and your guests should see are your beautiful new hardwood floors.

Over time, however, overuse of wood filler can cause major problems in your hardwood floors. Luckily, a good understanding of what wood filler is and how it should be applied can help prevent these problems.

The following is a two-part look at the dangers of wood filler overuse and how it should be properly applied. Enjoy!

Part One: Understanding Wood Filler

It’s important to have a clear understanding of what wood filler is and what it does before starting any project that involves wood filler. There are generally three main ingredients in any high quality wood filler: A binder, which is generally a blend of oil and varnish; a bulking agent, typically silica; and a solvent, usually either mineral spirits or water. These components combine to create filler, which is used to cover up minor gaps or defects.

Tarara Hardwood Floors Correctly Treated With Wood Filler

Before you start your project, make sure you choose a wood filler that matches the color of your hardwood floors. Because it is paste-like in nature, there is a good chance that it won’t dry clear or match the color of your floors. There are pre-tinted fillers you can buy, or you can try to match the color yourself using a stain or coloring agent.

You should also remember that viscosity is an important factor when choosing a wood filler. If a filler is too thick it will be difficult to spread and will leave unsightly lumps. If it is too thin, it won’t stick to anything and will fail to do its job. A good medium viscosity filler is the best option for most hardwood flooring projects.

Don’t miss the next installment of “Wood Filler: A Sticky Situation”, in which we’ll look at what happens when you use too much filler.

This week’s Wood Wars is going to be epic. We’ve pitted Red Oak against his brother White Oak in an emotional, Oak on Oak domestic hardwood battle. If you have or are planning on getting oak flooring, you don’t want to miss this. Now, on to the fight!

Natural Red Oak Flooring

Red Oak:

Hardness: 1,290 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 14,300 psi
Modulus of Expansion: 1,850 1000 psi
Density: 780 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 8.6%
Radial Shrinkage: 4.0%

Natural White Oak Flooring

White Oak:

Hardness: 1,360 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 15,200 psi
Modulus of Expansion: 1,780 1000 psi
Density: 900 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 7.2%
Radial Shrinkage: 4.2%

Strength and Durability
They’re related species, so it makes sense that the numbers would be close, but wow! This is neck-and-neck! Despite their similarities, White Oak still beats Red Oak in every measurement except MOE, and even though the hardness factors are really close, White Oak crushes Red in density. Sorry Red Oak, but this round goes to White.

Movement in Service
Another close round. The tangential shrinkage of Red Oak is a bit higher than White Oak, and the differential for White is a flat 4, versus 4.6 for Red Oak. The radial shrinkage for White Oak is slightly higher than Red, but that doesn’t carry enough wait to tip the scales. White Oak once again takes the round.

Looks
This round is too close to call. True, the reddish-brown heartwood and contrasting tones of Red Oak are beautiful, but pale white tones and tight, dark grain of White Oak is equally stunning. Both species have been oak flooring standards in homes for years and both are easy to pair with many different design schemes. The differences between the two are subtle but noticeable, but one isn’t any more attractive than the other. This round is a draw.

Conclusion
The rounds may have been close, but White Oak comes out victorious this week! Both are great options for homeowners – oak flooring is known to add value to any home. Still, when it comes down to the details, Red Oak just couldn’t measure up. Congrats to White Oak!

If you thought last week’s installment of Wood Wars was exciting, you just might flip your lid over the battle this week: White Oak vs. Ash! You may be thinking, “SNOOOZE! These two hardwood flooring varieties are so similar that the match will end in a stalemate!” Oh ye of little faith. They may be similar, but each brings certain unique characteristics to the arena that should make for a very interesting bout. So without further delay, let’s bring on the wood!

Prefinished White Oak Flooring

White Oak:

Hardness: 1,360 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 15,200 psi
Modulus of Elasticity: 1,780 1000 psi
Density: 900 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 7.2%
Radial Shrinkage: 4.2%

Prefinished North Country Ash Flooring

Ash:

Hardness: 1,200 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 15,000 psi
Modulus of Elasticity: 1,660 1000 psi
Density: 769 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 7.8%
Radial Shrinkage: 4.9%

Strength and Durability
Both White Oak and Ash have a similar Janka hardness rating, but White Oak has a higher density than Ash, meaning it’s going to take a little more abuse in its lifetime than Ash will. While the strength and stiffness of both wood types are in the same ballpark, White Oak still has slightly higher numbers. Combine this with the higher density and we’ve got a clear winner in this round: White Oak.

Movement in Service
With tangential and radial shrinkage and differentials that are almost identical, this round is almost too close to call. Again, White Oak squeaks by with slightly lower numbers, so it is going to win this round, too – but just barely.

Looks
White Oak, like other Oak varieties, has been a flooring standard in homes across the U.S. for years – it’s versatile, full of light tones, and easy to match to furniture and fixtures. On the other hand, Ash features contrasting pale tones and reddish-brown heartwood that create intriguing designs and accent the wood’s fluid grain pattern. For those reasons, this round goes to Ash.

Conclusion
Even though Ash is more eye-catching and exotic-looking than its opponent, at the end of the day durability and versatility win out. That said, the winner is…White Oak! See you next week for another exciting installment of Wood Wars!

It’s been awhile, but Wood Wars are back by popular demand! This week brings out two heavy hitters for a bare-knuckle, grain-on-grain battle between domestic Red Oak and exotic Amendoim. Let’s start the show!

Prefinished Natural Red Oak

Red Oak:

Hardness: 1,860 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 14,300 psi
Modulus of Elasticity: 1,850 1000 psi
Density: 780 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 8.6%
Radial Shrinkage: 4%

Prefinished Amendoim

Amendoim:

Hardness: 1,340 pounds
Modulus of Rupture: 13,800 psi
Modulus of Elasticity: 2,030 1000 psi
Density: 800 KG/m3
Tangential Shrinkage: 6.5%
Radial Shrinkage: 4.6%

Strength and Durability
The exotics usually really one-up the domestics here, but this time the round goes to…Red Oak! Both species’ numbers are relatively low, but Red Oak keeps a consistent lead in every category except MOE and density, proving that exotics aren’t always the tougher species.

Movement in Service
This round goes to Amendoim, no question. Red Oak’s numbers aren’t too high, but it’s tangential and radial differential is too great to overlook. Red Oak isn’t going to warp or buckle too much, but it’s more likely to do so than Amendoim.

Looks
This category is a tough call. Both species feature reddish-brown hues and graceful, wavy grains. While we love the bright, warm tones of the Amendoim, the subtle, versatile look of Red Oak makes it a perfect complement to a number of different design schemes. The verdict? Red Oak.

Conclusion
Red Oak squeaked by with the win this round, despite the good fight put up by Amendoim. Tune in next week for some more hardcore hardwood action!

With SO MANY choices on the market today, how can you be sure you’ve decided on the right type of wood for your flooring project? If your heart starts racing at the thought of making a decision, don’t worry. We’ve picked the top five hardwood choices, included a brief description of each wood, and wrapped everything up in a nice, shiny package. Relax, take a deep breath and read on.
Cumaru
Also known as Brazilian Chestnut, Cumaru is one of the hardest, most durable flooring choices on the market. The wood has a beautiful reddish-brown color, a course texture and an impressive 3200 Janka rating. If you’re looking for a warm, relaxed wood choice, Cumaru is right up your alley.
Douglas Fir
Douglas Fir has a rich, tan-red color and a vertical grain. It’s been used widely in the US since the 1800s and is one of the most popular wood choices for historic homes, trim, mouldings, doors and windows. Native to the western US and Canada, Douglas Fir is versatile, strong and classic.
Guajara
Also known as Moabi, Guajara is just an all-around great wood. It is stable, durable and very attractive. The light yellow to reddish-brown color works well with many different types of decorating themes. The Janka rating of Guajara is 2100 and the density is 820 KG/m3, meaning your floors are going to be around for a long time.
Lapacho
If your color scheme calls for rich, olive brown floors, look no farther than Lapacho. This type of Ipe wood has a Janka hardness rating of 3684 and a dense cell structure, making it naturally resistant to insects, decay and mold.
Patagonian Rosewood
Native to Bolivia and Paraguay, Patagonian Rosewood is highly compatible with many different home design schemes. The combination of rich browns and reddish-oranges create an exotic aesthetic that seems at-home in most any room. The wood will darken over time and is naturally resilient against everyday wear and tear.

Finished Patagonian Rosewood

We received a question about spot refinishing the other day and enjoyed the topic so much that we decided to share the information with you, our loyal readers. Enjoy!

Q:
1) Is it possible to refinish only a portion of my hardwood floors, or will I have to do the whole room?
2) Is spot refinishing a DIY project, or should I get a professional?
3) Is there any risk that the newly finished floors will look worse than the original floor looks now?
4) Is there any type of finish you’d recommend?

A:
1.) It is definitely possible to refinish only a portion of a room. However, there is a good chance that the floor stain won’t match the color of the original floors, especially if you weren’t responsible for installing or finishing them.
2.) While spot refinishing can be a DIY project, we recommend you go to professional for the same reason you’d go to a professional to re-shingle your roof. You can probably do it, but that doesn’t mean you will be able to do it well.
3.) This is THE BIG risk of refinishing partial floors. The good news is that if you try to spot refinish and it doesn’t look good, you can just refinish the rest of the boards and it will look fine.
4.) There isn’t any one finish that works “the best” – each type has its own pros and cons. Oil-based urethanes are the easiest to work with since they are slow-drying, but they can amber significantly. Water-based urethanes won’t amber quite so much, but they are fast-drying and therefore often leave brush marks if you’re not careful. Solvent-based finishes are somewhat dangerous; if you’re using a solvent-based finish, get a professional to do the work.

Essentially, there’s no harm in trying to do spot refinishing yourself. The worst thing that can happen is you’ll ruin that part of the floor and have to do the whole room anyway. Consult a professional if you have any questions, and good luck!

Acacia Bronze Finished Floor